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  1. #1
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    Instructional Focus for Culinary Students?

    My CTE Director (career and technical education - which is the name for vocational ed in Arizona) has encouraged me to participate in the annual state ProStart competition for the 2007-08 school year. ProStart is a fine dining competition organized by the Education Foundation of the National Restaurant Association.

    I've done some on-line research and geez ... some of the top winners in the past have produced:

    · Pan Fried West Virginia Trout with Lemon Chive Beurre Blanc Sauce, Country Ham Risotto and Sauteed Green Asparagus.
    · Pan Seared Salmon Fillet with Red Pepper Coulis, Lemon Risotto and Asparagus
    · Beef Tenderloin with sauteed shrimp, Mushroom Ragout, Huricot Verte Bundles and Boursin Cream Sauce.

    The national winers for 2006-07 produced wild mushroom fennel and pancetta salad, sautéed Colorado striped bass, and a rustic buttermilk pancake with caramelized apple.

    [url]http://www.nraef.org/headline/headline_353.asp[/url]

    This is all very fine and well but my students would be competing at a tremendous cultural disadvantage. As Apache they're economically disadvantaged and have had no exposure to fine dining. The closest they've come to a sautéed Colorado striped bass would probably be a processed breaded fish stick from the local supermarket ... assuming they would even eat such a product. As for the rest - Risotto? Boursin Cream Sauce? Beurre Blanc Sauce? Fennel and Pancetta Salad?

    Yikes!

    As teenagers, these kids are familiar with fast food. They're also familiar with Apache cuisine which is largely southwestern / Mexican with a sprinkling of native recipes like fry bread.

    As a teacher I know I should set high standards ... but fine dining is a whole 'nother world from where these kids are coming from. For that matter, there ARE no fine dining restaurants in area I'm moving to. Most of the restaurants are diners or fast food franchises and the few that aren't are most definitely casual. Fine dining doesn't even exist as a concept in the minds of these kids.

    I'll have to think about this. Perhaps fine dining with a distinctively southwestern twist? I wasn't planning on teaching western European cuisine and will not be teaching Auguste Escoffier's five French mother sauces (Béchamel, Espagnole, Hollandaise, Tomato, and Velouté).

    On the other hand, we don't really have to participate in the ProStart annual meet. There are other culinary programs such as C-CAP or Skills USA. We don't HAVE to do fine dining.

    My father is under the impression that I'm another Joe Clark (Lean on Me), Pierre Dulane (Take the Lead), Louanne Johnson (Dangerous Minds) or Jaime Escalante (Stand and Deliver). These are all educators who made a difference in young lives and eventually had movies made about them.

    I'm all for helping make a difference in young lives but fine dining?

    There are something like 406,600 restaurants in the United States and 60% of these are franchised. The vast majority are casual dining or fast food. Realistically - most of the students who graduate from my culinary program will NOT work in a fine dining restaurant.

    I am not sure if ProStart is even the right curricular approach for my students. The entire premise of ProStart is managerial. ProStart was founded by the National Restaurant Association's Education Foundation as a way of ensuring a pipeline for future restaurant employees. The National Restaurant Association estimates that over 2 million jobs in the food service industry will appear over the next decade ... and 11% of the job vacancies will be for managers.

    Becoming a manager would definitely be an economic foot up for my students ... but how many of them will actually become managers? At this point, I'm thinking that my primary focus as an educator should be to train students for entry level food service jobs whether it's in the front of the house (host, cashier, service person, or service attendant) or back of the house (line cook, baker, kitchen prep, dish washer).

    I've already met the executive chef of the two restaurants at the local casino. He projects needing 150 employees within the next couple of years ... so I've no doubt that my students will have jobs waiting for them if I can train them up to minimum entry level standards. The chef has even offered to start off entry level cooks at the wage of $10.50/hour which is quite good for the area.

    Students who graduate and enter the food service industry can always apply for in-house training as a manager at some later point ... so I'm not sure if the ProStart approach is even right for my students.

    Does this make any sense?

  2. #2
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    David, yes your post makes a lot of sense. I agree with your opinions of fine dining being such a leap for these kids. Many of the foods you mention will be so foreign to them that they probably wouldn't even enjoy the flavor - yet it would be wonderful if you could expose them to some of them. Who's to say that you couldn't take some of their native dishes and turn those into something spectacular. Take a look at Bobby Flay, he is famous for his southwestern cuisine served at his fine dining establishments. Theres no reason why the kids couldn't work on some native style dishes to serve at the competition -- it will just take some creativity.

    Take a look at this menu from one of Bobby Flay's restuarants. It might give you some ideas -- start with things they are familiar with as the base and then introduce them to the things that take that dish to the next level.
    [url="http://www.mesagrill.com/lasvegas/pdf/mesalvdinner04"]http://www.mesagrill.com/lasvegas/pdf/mesalvdinner04[/url][1].04.07.pdf

  3. #3
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    Ah - Bobbie Flay! I hadn't thought about this Chef. Thanks!

    In talking to the CTE director, I will probably offer ProStart as a year 2 independent study program just as I'll be offering ServSafe certification as an independent program.

    Since we're starting a new culinary program, we probably won't participate in any competitions or events this year ... though we might go and watch a few.

    If I can get a team together, we'll probably compete in Skills USA since this would also have competitive events for our health care and construction classrooms.

  4. #4
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    My first thought on reading this was to wonder what (aside from a French name) makes a dish such as rabbit aux deux moutardes or confit d'oie somehow superior to saute'd jackrabbit roasted in native herbs, or goose in wojape?

    "Fine dining" seem to have largely originated in the peasant cuisine of Western Europe; to continue with that as the penultimate of cooking seems to be rather ethnocentric, as well as reinforcing the views of a lot of people on the rez that native traditions cannot and will not be valued by Western society. You're right, its unlikely the kids will ever find themselves concerned about how many stars the Red Guide gave their potential employer, and this is definitely something for which you need to plan, but nothing says the only goals of the program should be to train the kids to get jobs someday.

    Taking the kids to a competition--with Apache recipes and every intention of winning--will go far to instill confidence in your students. It will also have the pleasant side effect of gaining you some acceptance and respect in the community because you will have shown (in a manner that will be understood within the community) that you have faith in the students and intend to become part of the community.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustJim
    "Fine dining" seem to have largely originated in the peasant cuisine of Western Europe; to continue with that as the penultimate of cooking seems to be rather ethnocentric, as well as reinforcing the views of a lot of people on the rez that native traditions cannot and will not be valued by Western society ... Taking the kids to a competition--with Apache recipes and every intention of winning--will go far to instill confidence in your students. It will also have the pleasant side effect of gaining you some acceptance and respect in the community because you will have shown (in a manner that will be understood within the community) that you have faith in the students and intend to become part of the community.
    Fine dining has its origins with turn of the 20th century French cuisine that was largely influenced by Chef Georges Auguste Escoffier. It was Escoffier who conceived and introduced the concept of Haute cuisine, the cooking of the grand restaurants and luxury hotels of the western world. This cuisine is characterized by elaborate preparations and presentations of meals accompanied by wine drawn from extensive cellars and served by efficiently run staffs.

    As a result of Escoffier's influence, the concept of fine dining is still largely French. Under this precept, is not enough that each meal be tasty. Each meal should also a work of art. Vegetables are not merely side portions but are garnishes that add color and texture contrast to the main entrée. The sauce is not merely a flavorful liquid dressing but is a color backdrop for the meal. The main entrée itself isn't slapped on the plate as it would be in a diner. Care is taken to center the entrée in a pleasing fashion, often using vertical height to attract the eye's attention.

    In short, fine dining isn't simply a gourmet quality meal. It's an epicurean feast for all of the body's senses. The meal should have tremendous eye appeal, a savory aroma, and a pleasing blend of textures, colors, and flavors. The accompanying table service must also be impeccable.



    I have no doubt that a Southwest inspired meal highlighting Native cuisine could be presented just as well as any traditional or nouvelle cuisine meal ... but I find the precept behind this to be disturbing partially because of the ethnocentric bias that you alluded to but also because of the socio-economic bias that accompanies the expectation of what actually constitutes "fine dining."

    In France, fine dining caters primarily to the upper class and perhaps the upper middle class. The expense of traditional fine dining - characterized by only the best Parisian quality meals, has risen 216.8 percent over the last forty years. A Michelin rated three star restaurant can now charge as much as $300-$400 per person not including the cost of wine. Diners are not only paying for the quality of their meal, but they're also paying to be served in sumptuous and prestigious surroundings.

    This is not to say that French food is not alive and well in Paris ... but there's a considerable difference between a meal served at the typical bistro and one served at the Alain Ducasse au Plaza-Athénée, L'Ambroisie, or Pierre Gagnaire.



    In short, the entire concept of fine dining would be alien to my students. It's not just the elaborate meal preparation and plating presentation - but it's also the concept of white tablecloths, heavily starched cloth napkins folded into standing fans, fine quality porcelain, crystal goblets, tuxedo clad servers, and all of the panache that goes with fine dining.

    On the brighter side, ProStart wouldn't require us to serve such a meal. We only have to make it, plate it, and present it to the judges within a one hour time frame.

    Use of a fried tortilla garnish cut into an interesting shape could certainly add vertical height and the presence of tomatoes, chile peppers, and corn perhaps in a salsa or relish would certainly add color.

    I will have to think about this ...

    Perhaps pinon and chile crusted scallops with corn relish and salad or chile buttermilk salad with goat cheese and candied jalapenos followed by a smoked bison fajita with salsa and grilled vegetables? Hmmmmm ... this definitely bears thinking ...

    Unfortunately we really won't be in a position to compete this year. The chef instructor I'm replacing did not teach using state standards and the "advanced" students are really not advanced since they lack basic knowledge of nutrition, sanitation, food safety, and other prerequisites required by the food service industry.

    It's hard enough to teach fine dining to students who have no background in this ... but teaching students without the prerequisite skills to actually work in a commercial kitchen ... no, no, and no.

    The basics will have to come first.

  6. #6
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    David,
    It sounds like you have a good handle on the basics you'll need to build a good, sturdy program there. ServSafe is definatly a major milestone that needs to be accomplished by the students. I have put my certification to good use in the most bizare places (helping out a local fish vendor at the weekly street fete) I only went to a local community college when I studied Culinary Arts but it gets across the basic ideas needed to work in a kitchen.

    I think you are wise to have the kids watch the competition the first year. Who knows, maybe it will be a motivator for them to listen to new techniques and skills you teach them. It never hurts to expose kids to more of 'what's out there'.

    As far as teaching the mother sauces, I would reconsider. During my time studying I worked in kitchens to support myself. The bulk of my learning I have to say came from the Head Chefs of the restaurants I worked in but the two things I was most grateful for learning at school were the Mother Sauces and Pastries (bakeshop) (Long live Escoffier!). These were things that can get you a foot in the door in even the smallest independent restaurant. I know I beat out another candidate for a Sousse Chef position because I knew how to bake and make sauces (run the saute line). This was at a local family style restaurant that the locals would go to try out new things. Even if they never make an Espagnole sauce they would a least understand what is in the plastic bag labeled "demi-glas".

    My hat's off to you for embarking on this project. It is great to give these kids a skill that can support them, and perhap awaken a few artistic tendencies within them.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MissValerian
    As far as teaching the mother sauces, I would reconsider. During my time studying I worked in kitchens to support myself. The bulk of my learning I have to say came from the Head Chefs of the restaurants I worked in but the two things I was most grateful for learning at school were the Mother Sauces and Pastries (bakeshop)
    Thank you for your reply. I agree with you up to a point. Insofar as the cuisine of instruction will be Southwestern/Mexican, I suppose a basic white sauce could be the foundation for a good country gravy.

    And I'll grant that a tomato sauce could easily become a ranchera or enchilada sauce.

    For that matter, a brown sauce could become the foundation for a beef gravy.

    Velouté could eve be used to make chicken gravy .. but Hollandise?I just don't see Hollandaise being used in Southwestern OR Mexican cuisine. It's certainly not used in any of the area restaurants around the school.

    Of Escoffier's five mother sauces, Hollandaise is probably the least relevant.

  8. #8
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    P.S. I'm steering away from ProStart and C-CAPs. Both of these are really good programs but I have to consider the needs of my students.

    ProStart's primary emphasis is managerial. The secondary emphasis is fine dining.

    C-CAPS is all about fine dining with French Cuisine.

    My class will most likely join Skills USA which seems to be more generic.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Chin
    but Hollandise?I just don't see Hollandaise being used in Southwestern OR Mexican cuisine. It's certainly not used in any of the area restaurants around the school. Of Escoffier's five mother sauces, Hollandaise is probably the least relevant.
    Well, I guess it will be used once the kids pass through your course and start cooking it. I don't see why they would limit themselves to their ancient local dishes. If we ate only our local dishes, we would never have pizza or peanut butter over here, for example. We would always eat only stuffed cabbage leaves and pork cracklings and that vile substance that is called Serbian cheese. :?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zheljko
    I don't see why they would limit themselves to their ancient local dishes. If we ate only our local dishes, we would never have pizza or peanut butter over here, for example.
    My students are native American from a tribe known as the Apache. They live in an isolated desert community. The nearest non-native communities are the towns of Globe and Miami, 8 miles to the west, or the towns of Safford and Pima, about 65 miles to the east.

    The vast majority of students who graduate from the school will remain in the area.

    There are no fine dining restaurants in the area and no French restaurants. Most of the eating establishments are mom and pop diners. We also have several Mexican restaurants, one family run Chinese restaurant, and one Italian restaurant.

    The native Casino has two attached restaurants which are probably the nicest in the immediate area. The cuisine is largely Southwestern/Mexican.

    To my way of thinking, basic cooking techniques: braising, broiling, roasting and baking, steaming, poaching, pan frying, deep frying etc. are still the same regardless of whether the cuisine is French or Mexican.

    Basic sanitary procedures are also the same as all diners and restaurants must abide by the state health code.

    Miss Valerian made a good case for the instruction of mother sauces but Hollandaise has no place in the local cuisine. Hollandaise is also the least commonly used mother sauce in the United States. Outside of fine dining restaurants, one doesn't see Hollandaise used at all except for the production of Eggs Benedict ... and even then the restaurants that offer Eggs Benedict are most likely using a powdered sauce and not an actual made from scratch Hollandaise sauce which is much too time consuming to make given the cost of labor and the low demand for this product.

    There is absolutely no reason to teach Hollandaise except perhaps as a lesson in emulsification and/or coagulation and I can do that more readily using other recipes.

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